92 pts – Mike Bennie R S H Chardo

Whoowee, more from Dan Buckle (ex-Mount Langi now Chandon) in his personal project from the Mornington Peninsula. The thoughtful winemaker has taken fruit from Red Hill for this chardonnay wine, evidently sitting in the echelon just below the well-received Hillcrest Road vineyard chardonnay in the Circe folio. More hands-off winemaking, per se, in the search for Mornington verity.

Honeysuckle, bees wax, paraffin, struck quartz and wet stone aromas. Cool and fresh bouquet. In the mouth an energetic wash of pure, clean, juicy fruit flavours but tempered by an even, light framework of lacy, crisp, green fruited acidity and the refreshing clip of alpine herbs. A subtle flow of feathery, talc and slate mineral-like briskness sits underneath the wine, driving long and fine. Pretty simple in terms of what most would consider complexity in chardonnay, but the understated nature of this wine is unnerving and positive. Massively drinkable and fine. Go here. Restraint = sexiness.

92 pts – Mike Bennie

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